North Fork Thanksgivings a century-plus tradition

I know that many people—me included—will be missing Larry Wilson’s traditional write-up describing the North Fork Thanksgiving celebration at Sondreson Hall. I thought I’d try to fill the gap and also provide a little history.

The earliest mention of a community Thanksgiving in the North Fork appeared in The Columbian on Dec. 6, 1917. 

In the early days, the Upper North Fork School near Ford Ranger Station was a popular setting for holiday celebrations and community parties. In 1917 and 1918, for instance, the school children staged elaborate presentations for their parents and neighbors, featuring recitations, songs, and a goodly dose of humor. 

After dinner, the floor was cleared for a community dance that lasted for hours, accompanied by local musicians Ella Wurtz on violin, Mrs. Horace Brewster on guitar, and the teacher, Miss Ella Weide, on mandolin. The event also served as a fundraiser for the Parent-Teacher association.

As the community continued to grow, and before the community hall near Whale Creek was constructed in the early 1950s, Thanksgivings were traditionally hosted in the individual homes of those with larger cabins. Some took place at Jack and Mary McFarland’s Quarter Circle MC Ranch on Big Prairie and at Matt and Mata Brill’s Kintla Ranch compound near Trail Creek.  

After construction of the community hall, now named Sondreson Hall in memory of long-time North Forkers Loyd and Ruth Sondreson, that structure became the venue for most large-scale community events. 

Larry Wilson remembers that for several years the Sondresons prepared the feast, featuring baked salmon Ruth brought from Seattle. Later, Larry’s father Ross Wilson and wife Katie provided turkeys and hosted the event. Eventually, the North Fork Improvement Association stepped forward to subsidize purchase of meats and some of the main ingredients. 

It wasn’t until 1975, however, that the Thanksgiving tradition we know and enjoy today was established. Newcomers Pat and Jon Elliott, who had moved to the North Fork from Alaska, got together with Johnny and Marlene Mathison and the Sondresons to strategize a large-scale event for the entire community. Although the North Fork had a foot of snow the day before, the gathering went ahead as planned. It proved to be a big hit, and the Hall has been the scene of our community Thanksgiving celebration ever since.

Early columnist Frank Evans wrote that the event was usually followed by dancing. He always complained, though, “I’m tellin’ ya, it’s somethin’ to dance on an overfilled stomach, wearin’ long johns, heavy socks, ample boots, and in a warm hall. But we sure had fun.” 

By the mid-1980s Steve Berg and his wife had become the primary hosts of the event, with assistance from John and Mary Louise Rygiel, John Frederick and Sharon Costantino, Ron and D’Ann Wilhelm, Ray Brown, Bud and Eunice James, Howard and Annemarie Harrod, Jim Hale, and Freddie Hebert. The Bergs were the principal hosts for over 30 years, until they passed the torch in 2019.

The North Fork Thanksgiving has always been a gala event. Volunteers start early in the morning, firing up the generator and lighting the wood stove and propane lights, putting the finishing touches on elaborately decorated tables and setting up chairs. 

This year was no exception. Principal hosts were Zoë and John Zardis, who blew out all the stops. They were ably assisted by Kevin and Beth Ulrichsen, Dawn and Dan Jacobson, Jean Perry, Karen and Terry Atha, Karin Colby, Krista Johnson, Polly Preston, Lynn and Bonny Ogle, Thomas O’Hayer, and Randy Kenyon and Donna Harrison. 

A team of volunteers, including grandchildren, began decorating the Hall last Saturday. Every flat surface and window, as well as the front porch, was decorated. Community creativity was on display big-time. There were elaborate table centerpieces and decorations, a Gratitude Tree where guests could affix colored aspen leaves noting the things for which they were most grateful, and crafts for the children, including wooden turkey magnets with real feathers and googly eyes (so cute). 

Retired teacher Beth Ulrichsen led the charge on decorations. Most impressive were the large, pumpkin-shaped rocks, painted orange and fitted with wooden stems and rafia finishings, appropriately bear-resistant, that guests were encouraged to take home and display on their porches.  

Hutterite Turkeys from the Apple Barrel were prepared three different ways (roasted, brined and smoked) by Bonny Ogle, Dawn Jacobson, and Jean Perry. Ray Brown baked a whole Perfect Cuts ham to perfection. Karina Pettey and others mashed copious quantities of spuds. Every dietary regimen was accommodated: an array of vegetarian offerings, regular and gluten-free stuffing, regular and dairy-free mashed potatoes and gravy, and delicious gluten-free dinner rolls.  

The wide variety of appetizers, side dishes, and salads provided by local residents and their guests was impressive, as always. Including, of course, a tray of Becky Braunig’s famous stuffed jalapeño peppers, prepared in her honor. I counted 10 different pies and at least 10 other desserts. What a feast! There were even take-out containers for those who wanted to capture leftovers or take a meal to those who weren’t able to attend.  

We had a moderate crowd this year, compared to other years—60 souls or so. But there was no lack of enthusiasm. Thanks to all who participated and to those who helped clean and restore the Hall afterwards. Best of all, thanks to North Forkers past and present for keeping this long-standing community tradition alive!

Of note, new this year was the first annual North Fork Thanksgiving Turkey Trot. Nine hearty participants jogged from the Bill and Lois Walker residence on the North Fork Road to Red Meadow Creek and back, a 3.5 mile course. The event was organized by Nicole Randall, who ran with her husband James and children Frankie and Orry, her parents Arne and April Boveng, and long-time North Fork runners Richard and Suzanne Hildner and Suzanne’s sister Jennifer. 

Lois Walker is a North Fork historian.