Historic road trip
Since I turned seventy years of age I have not been fond of birthdays and now, at 84, I really dislike them. Nevertheless, this year I received one of the best birthday presents I can remember.
I was invited to join North Fork historian Lois Walker and Polebridge ranger Jim Dalstrom on a drive down the Inside Road. The purpose was to assess the condition of the road and to discuss the history of the early, pre-Park homesteaders.
It was a great day! In my mind the Inside Road typifies the biggest reason we need National Parks. Not because of any great scenic views, but because you are driving on a primitive historical motor-route through a truly wild forest that is found today only in National Parks. Huge, really old trees with no saw marks, except where trees have been blown down across the road.
Also, we passed through several old paths of large fires. The oldest, the Red Bench Fire, now had 30 plus year old regeneration. Then the early 2000s Moose Fire and finally the recent Howe Ridge Fire, where there are still black areas and not much in the way of trees.
We stopped at the site where early homesteader Theo Christiansen’s homestead once stood at the base of Anaconda Hill. When Glacier Park acquired these early homesteads, they burned down the buildings and pretty much did everything they could to return the sites to a “natural state,” thus destroying a part of the North Fork history. A real shame in my opinion, especially since these were the earliest North Fork settlers. All of them before 1910. The west side homesteaders were almost entirely after 1910.
All told we saw only six cyclists on the road, in two groups of three. An unexpected bonus was a lady who is the great niece of Theo Christiansen. We had a neat conversation and Lois gave her her email address so they can exchange information and add to our knowledge of North Fork history.
Although it has been years since I had driven down the Inside Road, it was pretty much as I remembered it— especially the steep, long, Anaconda Hill. The only difference was the road repair where Anaconda Creek washed out the old road and they rebuilt it by raising the road level.
In my mind the road is drivable and cars may have to be careful, but they should be allowed. I also recognize the value for cyclists and horseback riders. I would be satisfied for the road to be open— at least for one-way traffic— for only one month of the year (my choice would be September and/or October). Let the bikers and horseback riders have the bulk of the tourist season.
What do you think?
Let me know at Box 3, Columbia Falls, MT 59912.
Larry Wilson's North Fork Views appears weekly in the Hungry Horse News.