East Coast pizza comes to Bigfork

By LAURA BEHENNA

Bigfork Eagle

New York style pizza — with a Cape Cod influence — arrived in Bigfork June 15.

Growing up on Cape Cod, Sun Mountain Pizzeria co-owner Russell Meads started learning the pizza business in his teens. He and his wife, co-owner Jamie Meads, collaborated on all aspects of creating the pizzeria. They've discovered that what people like in and on their pizza is about the same in Montana as it was on the East Coast.

"White pizza," made without tomato sauce, features Sun Mountain's own blend of mozzarella and white cheddar cheese plus high-flavor toppings on a variety of pies. The "Greek" white pizza has red onions, olives, feta cheese and fresh spinach. Another Mediterranean flavor-fest is the "Italian Garden," covered with green pesto, creamy ricotta cheese, sun-dried tomatoes and artichokes. The "Southwestern" white pizza spices up the palate with tangy mango-peach salsa, grilled chicken and roasted corn.

"We try to use the best ingredients," Meads said. "We try to provide a good quality product with quick, courteous service."

Of course Sun Mountain has traditional red pizzas with tomato sauce, cheese and a variety of meat and vegetable toppings. All the specialty ingredients, such as grilled chicken and mango salsa, are available individually for build-your-own pizzas, too.

Meads said many customers compliment Sun Mountain's pizza crust. A close friend of the Meads, John Yingling, created the recipe 35 years ago. Yingling visited recently and modified the recipe, using a blend of whole wheat and white flours, so that Sun Mountain would have its own unique crust.

"The crust is the key," Meads said. "It's the foundation of pizza."

His father-in-law, Jim Wolf, makes the dough and prepares the toppings, grating the cheese daily for freshness.

"He's my right-hand man," Meads said of Wolf, who lives next door to the Meads family. The Meads' 8-year-old daughter, Nitara, came up with the name for the restaurant.

"She loves it out here," Meads said of Nitara, who attends Bigfork Elementary School.

He tosses a ball of dough up in the air, spinning it into a thin disc 18 inches across, Sun Mountain's standard size. He arranges the crust on a wooden "peel board," spreading the dough with sauce, toppings and cheese, then eases the pie directly onto a flat pizza stone in one of the two ovens — the brick-like stone helps crispen the crust bottom as the pie bakes. The result is a crust with some wholesome heft that still allows the flavors and textures of the sauce, cheese and toppings to play center stage.

Salads also are made fresh daily and topped with the restaurant's home-made dressings. Sun Mountain has an espresso bar and serves Big Dipper hard ice cream, made fresh in Missoula.

The dining environment is an essential part of the experience at Sun Mountain. The indoor space is airy and clutter-free and decorated with the colorful paintings of local artist Nancy Cawdry. The tables can be moved around freely to accommodate large and small groups. Customers are welcome to stay as long as they like, and the wireless Internet service is free.

Sun Mountain also has an outdoor seating area with a retractable awning to shelter diners from the elements.

The Meads moved to Bigfork two years ago after a friend from Cape Cod described the Bigfork's beauty and lack of crowds. They remodeled the former Bigfork Bakery space, buying equipment and hiring contractors locally whenever possible.

"All the contractors did a great job," Meads said. "They did what they said they'd do. That helped me out a lot."

Sun Mountain Pizzeria is open 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. seven days a week at 8270 Highway 35. The phone number is 837-6664.